Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
